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WARREN'S I-GUIDE
10-GRADE SYSTEM
Developed recently by Jon Warren, this 10-grade system
is designed to make grading movie posters more comparable to other
collectible hobbies. These descriptions were taken from the Iguide Movie
Poster Prices publication.
MINT (C10) - Item is "as
new" or in the same condition as the day it was made. The item may
or may not literally be in "perfect" condition, but it does
exhibit an amazing state of preservation with virtually no perceptible
flaws of any kind, other than very minor flaws that may have occurred
during the printing process. Printing registration should be perfect. In
many cases, an otherwise "mint" poster may have printing flaws
in the registration, or alignment, of colors causing one color to stand
slightly offset from the others. The folding/trimming process should not
have resulted in any damage to the item of any kind. Sometimes a poster
may have slight fold lines that occurred when the poster was put through
the folding machine. If the fold line broke the ink, causing a faint
white line, the item should not be grated C10. No edge fraying or
dents/impressions are allows in this grade.
(TOP)
NEAR MINT (C9)
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Superb. Unused or very carefully used, but with some minor storage
defect, minor tear, one pinhole in each corner or some other very minor
flaw on an otherwise unused poster. Item may be in
"never-used" condition or may have been used in the theatre,
but was carefully preserved after use. One tiny pinhole in each corner
from being displayed is allowable in this grade. Slightly offset color
registration is allowable in this grade. Very slight compression marks
(indentations) from movie theatre use (i.e. Clamped in a display) are
allowable in this grade. No edge fraying. One Sheets, which were
normally quarter-folded until recent times, may have very slight fold
wear, if such wear does not significantly affect the eye appeal of the
image. Folds haven't damaged print.
(TOP)
EXCELLENT (C8)
- Commonly referred to as Condition A or Very Fine. Item may be in
"never-used" condition or may have been used in the theater,
but was carefully preserved after use. If a C9 is almost like new, then
a C8 is not far behind a C9. An above-average poster exhibiting minimal
signs of use. Bright and clean. Poster has no major defects but could
have an accumulation of several minor ones, such as a small (1/8"
or less) border chip. No creases on lobby cards, but normal/minor
creases on one sheets and larger posters is to be expected. A handful of
small pinholes or border tears could be present. Aging on older pieces
could be present. Paper could be slightly yellowed, but not brown.
Minimal or slight restoration could be present if professionally done.
There may be signs of wear and use, such as folds or creases (except on
lobby cards), possibly a minor border tear, or pinholes in the border.
Not soiled; clean and bright. No frontal tape repairs are allowed in
this grade, but possibly one very minor tape repair to the back of the
piece. Window cards may have written or printed banners. The image area
of the poster should be undamaged. Poster should be bright, supple, and
clean. May exhibit more fold wear than a C9, but without significant
color loss in the fold areas. A slight amount of color loss is
acceptable in this grade, but if the fold wear is such that a heavy
solid white line results from loss of color due to wear, then the item
would not qualify for a C8 rating. No edge wrinkling or fraying is
allowed in this grade. No tape is allowed in this grade. No writing on
the front of the poster is allowed in this grade, however, writing on
the back of the poster that DOES NOT BLEED THROUGH is acceptable in this
grade. Minor tears are allowed in this grade, but they should be MINOR,
meaning less than 1" in length, and not more than two total tears
on the item. Common areas for tears on posters are at the folds,
especially the interior folds where the item may have been unfolded and
then refolded. This kind of minor paper separation (tear) is common and
is allowable in a C8 grade notwithstanding other extenuating
circumstances. Should the item have minor paper loss, such as a small
piece missing from a corner or interior fold, it should not be given a
C8 rating. A corner crease (1/2" or less) or two can be present,
but numerous creases affecting the image are not allowed in this grade.
(TOP)
VERY GOOD to EXCELLENT (C7)
- Often referred to as Fine condition. Still a very nicely preserved
item. Typically, an item in this grade is almost a C8, but one or two
unsightly flaws, or heavier than normal fold wear or pinholes, or one
small piece of tape on a corner, cause the item to be assigned the C7
designation rather than C8. Heavy damp stains eliminate the item from
this grade. However, a minor damp stain on an unobtrusive part of the
poster could be allowed. A window card with the top 4 inch blank area
trimmed away should not be rated higher than C7, even if in otherwise C9
condition. (TOP)
VERY GOOD (C6)
- Often referred to as "Very Good" condition or
"Condition B." The typical used poster in average condition. A
sound example, although with wear and defects to be expected of an item
that was intended to be used and re-used. Unusual problems should be
described. The poster can have slight browning of paper but not
brittleness or flaking; it may also have a small amount of writing in
some unobtrusive portion of the poster. Minor border repair, edge tears,
stains, or other signs of average use could be present. Eye appeal of
the image area should be good. Minor soiling could be present. Larger
posters could have minor fold tears (length of which should be
described); also normal folds, creases, minor fold tears, possible
repaired tear (from the back). Professional major restoration is
acceptable in this grade. The poster should be complete and if not,
major problems should be described (such as paper replacement). In every
case, paper replacement and major color touchup and restoration should
be described in detail. Tape anywhere on the poster should be mentioned
and described. Small pen markings on the front can be present if noted,
but not if large, heavy, or if affecting the eye appeal of the image.
Sun-fading on the poster should be described, and if significant, should
prevent the example from being in this grade. Heavy insect or rodent
damage is not allowable in this grade. Amateur color touchup with
colored markers is allowable in this grade. Common flaws that relegate
an item to this grade include heavy fold wear, unusually large number of
pinholes or staple holes, taped corners or fold lines reinforced with
tape, minor tears, possibly minor paper loss (pieces missing) from the
edges, edge fraying and so on. Because posters were so often used and
reused, the C6 grade is common.
(TOP)
GOOD to VERY GOOD (C5)
- A heavily-worn item, showing significant signs of use such as multiple
pinholes or staple holes, tape, tears, soiling, pieces missing, small
markings or pen/pencil marks. Although this is an "in-between"
grade and difficult to distinguish from a C6, items are relegated to
this lower classification when there is a greater number of general
flaws than would normally be expected in the higher grade, or when one
major flaw makes the C6 grade unacceptable.
(TOP)
GOOD (C4) -
Below average but still suitable for display. Heavily used, with
significant signs of use that affect the overall eye appeal of the
piece. Small pieces may be missing from the borders (should be
described). Image area will usually have minor defects that may impinge
upon the graphics. Could have tape, writing, or tears. Numerous pinholes
and resulting tears could be present. Complete, but graphics are
face-worn. (TOP)
FAIR (C3) -
Often referred to as Fair condition, or Condition D. Heavily worn, but
yet still complete (TOP)
POOR to FAIR (C2)
- An extremely worn, possibly even incomplete item.
(TOP)
POOR (C1) - The
lowest grade, representing items in the lowest possible condition.
Heavily damaged, possibly missing large pieces, possibly brittle and
crumbling. Except for valuable rarities, items in this grade have little
or no value. (TOP)
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COMMON
TERMS OF GRADING
(From L.A.M.P. Website)
The condition/grade that is assigned to a particular
movie poster is based on the existence or lack thereof of certain
blemishes that are commonly found on movie art.
Since movie art was designed as dispensable
advertising materials, they were not handled like a
"collectible." Many were stapled, taped, written on, hung in
windows, and generally, just beaten around until they were discarded.
It is amazing that any survived to make it to the collector's market.
Unfortunately, many of the survivors bear the scars of their journey.
The most common blemishes/defects are as follows:
Assessing the condition of movie art is subjective
and so unfortunately there are no "carved-in-stone" rules
for grading the condition of posters. There are, however, three
generally accepted "grading systems" that are used by most
collectors/dealers to determine the condition of a movie poster.
There is a fourth grading system that is used by auction houses.
Because there are no set standards, grades can vary among the
parties doing the assessing.
(TOP)
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BLEED-THROUGHS / SEE-THROUGHS
A bleed-through occurs when
writing (particularly markers), other marks or stains that are on the
back of the poster are absorbed into the paper and are then seen on the
front.
A see-through occurs when
tape, marks or stains, mostly writing on the back side of the poster,
particularly with a black grease pencil, can be "seen" on the
front of the poster but has not been absorbed into the paper.
A see-through can generally
only be seen if the poster is held up to the light, but a bleed-through
can be seen on the front in any light or position.
The location, size and
prominence of the bleed-through as seen on the front will determine how
much value the poster loses. If the bleed-through occurs on the border,
the value of the poster in not affected as much as if it occurs on the
artwork.
CAUSES
Some bleed-throughs and
see-throughs occur because theatre managers used the backside of posters
as "bulletin boards." They placed posters in the windows of
the theatres and used the back side of the poster (the side which was
seen from the inside of the theatre) to write information such as coming
attractions and show times, or to tape other pictures or notes on the
back of the poster. In order for the writing to be visible from a
distance, heavy markers were used thus creating either a bleed-through
or a see-through blemish.
Some bleed-throughs and
see-throughs are the result of using different types of tape to repair
holes or tears in the poster. Some adhesive tapes are very acidic, and
the acid will eventually eat through the poster. Less acidic tapes may
not actually bleed through the paper, but can create see-throughs.
If bleed-throughs are the
result of an alcohol-based marker (such as a 'Magic Marker'), the mark
is absorbed into the color fiber of the poster. The only way to correct
this type of bleed-through is to remove the mark through a controlled
bleaching process, and then the color re-added to the pigment of the area
of the poster where the original color was bleached out. Only a
professional restorer should do this.
Tape can sometimes be
removed through a continuous controlled washing and flushing process. A
professional, too, should only attempt this.
Since see-throughs can only
be seen when there is light behind the poster, to eliminate the 'shadow'
effect of a see-through, simply frame the poster and eliminate the light
source.
It always best to leave any repairs to a professional restorer. (TERMS)
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CREASES
Creases are embedded lines
that are created by pressing, misfolding or crinkling paper or card
stock materials. THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE FOLD
LINES THAT ARE FOUND ON PRE-1980’S MATERIALS!
Some collectors
misclassify wrinkles
with creases; wrinkles are not as deep or as damaging as creases.
Creases go deeper into the paper and can actually take away the color
leaving a white space. Wrinkles are more surface defects and normally
do not take away the color or leave white marks.
This is particularly
obvious with post-1970's materials which are clay-coated. Creases will
actually break through the clay coating and into the color, whereas
wrinkles do not. BUT, unfortunately, because of the mishandling,
creases and combined with wrinkles so both are present on the poster.
CAUSES
Creases are most commonly
the result of mishandling, improper folding, improper storage, and
lack of care in moving the poster.
IMPACT ON POSTER VALUE
Creases impact a poster's
overall value, depending on how many there are and where they are
located. Creases in the border
would have little or no affect; creases on the artwork would have
limited impact, depending on the number and severity.
For more information, see GRADING
REPAIRS
The paper can usually be straightened
out either utilizing a heavy duty clothes steamer or a heat press.
Even though it is a simple process, care should be taken anytime one
is handling a poster. Most frame shops have a heat press for
straightening out the wrinkles that occur in storing posters. This
will help but will not eliminate the crease mark.
The actual crease mark
will leave a white mark (which is the paper below) where the color has
cracked or is missing. Most collectors do not have the expertise to
fill in these white spots, so this should normally be done by a
professional restorer. (TERMS)
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A poster is considered faded when it loses
either part or all of its color and/or detail in the artwork.
Fading occurs as the result of a poster
being exposed to direct sunlight for long period of time, such as
being hung in a window.
Fading is considered a serious poster
defect, and the degree and size of the faded area has a direct impact
on the value of the poster. As with all other defects, if the artwork
is unaffected and the fading appears on the background or border, the
poster's value is not significantly diminished. However, if the colors
and graphics of the artwork show signs of fading, then the value of
the poster will be affected proportionately. SEE GRADING
FOR MORE INFORMATION!
Faded posters can be restored to
original color by a professional poster restorer who literally
repaints the faded areas of the poster.
It always best to leave any repairs to a professional
restorer. (TERMS)
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DRILL
HOLES
At times promotions are done where
posters are pasted on old buildings around town. When such a promotion
is done, the posters are given over to an independent contractor
to do the midnight pasting. But before they are given out, normally
orders are given to mark them. One of the major ways that they are
marked is, they literally take a drill and drill a hole thru the stack
of posters .
 This
hole can vary in size and location on the poster, but its normally
between the size of a dime to the size of a quarter. This way the
posters are easily detectible if they make it back on the market.
Value
This DRASTICALLY affects the value and
most collectors won't accept it unless the itme has become rare or hard
to find.
Repairs
Since the actual paper is gone, a
professional restorer is needed to replace the paper and repaint over
the hole. Usually the procedure is more expensive than the value of the
poster warrants.
It always best to leave any repairs to a professional
restorer. (TERMS)
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HOLES - PIN, STAPLES, CHEW,
ETC.
A hole results when part
of the poster is either torn partially away from the remainder of the
poster, or when entire pieces of the poster are missing.
CAUSES
Holes occur for an endless
variety of reasons. The more common causes are due to pins and staples
which were used to display the poster in the theatre lobby. Other
holes are the result of mishandling of the poster. Stored posters can
attract a number of insects such as silverfish, worms, etc. which
result in chew marks.
IMPACT ON POSTER VALUE
The location and size of
the hole(s) will determine what affect, if any, it/they will have on
the overall value of the poster. Holes that are on the border of the
poster will not impact the value, generally speaking. Even small
pieces that are missing from the poster, if they are on the border,
will not have an affect.
However, holes or missing
pieces of the poster that are located on the artwork itself is
considered a major defect, and will therefore affect the overall value
of the poster. SEE GRADING FOR MORE INFORMATION!
REPAIRS
If the paper is merely
torn back from the poster but is still attached and intact, it can be
gently pulled back into place and reattached by use of acid-free
archival tape on the back side of the poster. The torn piece may be
wrinkled, so the wrinkles will have to gently be pulled out before
reattaching.
Small pin holes can be
repaired by placing acid-free archival tape on the back of the poster
and coloring in the front of the tape to match the poster. Normally,
the pin just pushes the paper aside as it penetrates making it fairly
easy to repair.
Major holes can be
restored by a professional poster restorer. Major holes can be
repaired in a number of ways, such as filling the hole with a painting
material called gesso which is applied and then sanded down, or by
linen or paper backing.
For larger holes, the
restorer normally has to find a paper match from a similar poster,
bleach it and attach it to your poster and repaint the paper.
It always best to leave any repairs to a professional
restorer. (TERMS)
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MARKS
A mark is defined as any
blemish on the front of the poster caused by pens, markers, grease
pencils, regular pencils, crayons, or any other type of writing device.
CAUSES
Most marks found on
posters were put there intentionally. Mustaches and devil’s horns may
be found on the faces of leading men and ladies. Scribble marks, doodles
and other "color additions" at the hands of amateur artists
can be found on posters.
IMPACT ON POSTER VALUE
Marks that are found on
the border
of a poster do not affect the value. Marks of any kind that deface the
artwork of the poster are considered serious blemishes and will severely
affect the poster's value. Marks that are located on the back of the
poster are not considered a defect, unless they result in a bleed-through
or see-through.
SEE GRADING
FOR MORE INFORMATION!
REPAIRS
There are a number of
options available when repairing marks on posters, depending on whether
the marks are old or new.
If the mark was made by
an older fountain pen, an ink eradicator may be used to remove it. Ink
eradicator is a type of bleach - when the mark is removed, so is the
color. Thus, the area where the ink eradicator is used would have to be
colored back in.
If the mark is the result
of indelible ink or a ballpoint pen, it cannot be bleached out. The
marks would then have to be removed by a professional restorer.
Pencil marks can be
removed with the use of a yellow brick art gum eraser. The art gum
eraser is very soft and crumbly. Regular pen and pencil erasers will not
only remove the mark, it will also remove all color. A REGULAR PEN OR
PENCIL ERASER SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO REMOVE ANY TYPE OF MARKS.
Since removing marks from
the artwork of a poster almost always results in the loss of color, it
is recommended that the removal of marks be done by a professional.
(TERMS)
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STAINS
A stain results when water or other
liquids, oils, dirt, etc. are either spilled or ground into the
poster.
Stains are normally the result of
accident spills, mishandling, improper storage or, in some cases,
intentional or accident misuse or abuse.
Stains that are present on the border
of a poster do not impact the value. However, if the stains occur on
the artwork of the poster, they are considered serious blemishes and
will severely affect the poster's value. Stains that are found on the
back of the poster are not considered a defect, unless they result in
a bleed-through or see-through that can be seen
on the front of the poster. SEE GRADING FOR MORE
INFORMATION!
Water stains and some other liquid
and/or chemical stains can be removed by bleaching/washing the poster.
However, this process is extremely delicate and precise because it
involves dampening the poster. Because paper is very susceptible when
wet, this process MUST BE DONE BY A PROFESSIONAL RESTORER.
Some direct stains can be removed by a
damp cloth, carefully applied to the poster. Posters with stubborn
dirt stains should be taken to a professional restorer where different
chemicals can be used to clean the poster.
If there is an ink stain, such as that
from an older fountain pen, an ink eradicator can be used to remove
the stain. Ink eradicator is a type of bleach, so when the stain is
removed, so is the color on the poster. The area where the ink
eradicator is applied would have to be colored in.
If the stain is the result of indelible
ink or newer ballpoint pens, it cannot be bleached out. THESE STAINS
WOULD HAVE TO BE REMOVED BY A PROFESSIONAL RESTORER.
Pencil stains can be removed with the
use of a yellow brick art gum eraser. The art gum eraser is very soft
and crumbly. Regular pen and pencil erasers will not only remove the
stain, it will also remove all color. A REGULAR PEN OR PENCIL ERASER
SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO REMOVE ANY TYPE OF stains.
Since removing stains from the artwork
of a poster almost always results in the loss of color, IT IS HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED THAT THE REMOVAL OF SUCH STAINS BY DONE BY A PROFESSIONAL
POSTER RESTORER ONLY. (TERMS)
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TAPE
This is one of the most
common but also one of the most mis-understood problem with posters.
Tape is so common that the culprit could be anyone who has handled the
poster.... even some COLLECTORS are guilty of using common tape to try
to do a 'quick fix' on a tear. Let's take a little closer look at the
situation:
TYPES
Household and commercial
tapes come in a WIDE variety of types and sizes from common Scotch tape
to masking tape (I've even seen DUCT tape on the back of some posters).
Most types of tape use a
very acidic adhesive. The problem is that you can't SEE the acid. You
wouldn't sit and watch insects chew away at your poster....... BUT even
though you can's SEE the damage occurring, the acid is slowly EATING
away at your poster just like an insect. AND what's even worse......
unlike insects, when you remove the tape..... the acid normally
continues to EAT YOUR POSTER!!
IMPACT ON POSTER VALUE
Tape will greatly impact a
poster's overall value, depending on the kind of tape, how much and
where it's located. Tape in the border would have little affect; BUT
anywhere in the artwork could be very damaging.
For more information, see GRADING
REPAIRS
The problem is that just
removing the tape doesn't stop the acid so it's usually best done by a
professional restorer. Some restorers use a soaking solution to rinse
the tape residue off the poster, while others use Naptha.
It always best to leave any repairs to a professional
restorer. (TERMS)
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A tear occurs when a part of the poster is
separated from the remainder of the poster.
CAUSES
Most tears occur in the area of the fold
lines. When posters have been folded and unfolded a number of
times, pressure is placed on the fold lines and this can sometimes
lead to separations or tears. Tears can also be the result of
mishandling or poor storage.
IMPACT ON POSTER VALUE
The location and size of the tears will
determine what impact it will have on the overall value of the poster.
If the tears are on the border of the poster, they will not impact the
value. If the tear affects the artwork of the poster, the value of the
poster will be decreased. SEE GRADING FOR MORE
INFORMATION!
REPAIRS
Most tears, particularly
those alone the fold lines, can be repaired by re-adhering the tear
with the use of non-acid archival tape on the back side of the poster.
NOT SCOTCH, MASKING OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF HOUSEHOLD TAPE.
We recommend an Archival
Document Repair Tape that is released by Lineco. It's easy to handle,
non-acidic, can be removed, and almost invisible. You don't normally use
that much at a time so one box usually last quite a while.
Bags
Unlimited has this item in stock if you don't have access to any.
It always best to leave any
repairs to a professional restorer. (TERMS)
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Folds and/or the fold lines resulting from
folding in a poster are not necessarily considered a
"defect". Whether or not a fold/fold line affects the value
depends on several factors.
WHEN FOLDS/FOLD LINES ARE
ACCEPTABLE
Advertising materials released prior to
the mid-1980’s were machine folded and mailed flat to the local
movie distributors/exhibitors. One
sheets were folded horizontally in half twice , then once
vertically.
Inserts were normally folded in half and then in half again.
Half-sheets were folded in half and then quartered. Larger sizes
were folded down until they were approximately 11" x 14' in size.
Machine folds are normally very crisp
and straight. Since these materials were distributed this way
intentionally by the studios, collectors do not consider machine
folds/fold lines for pre-1980’s materials to be defects.
Post-1980’s materials present another
side. Most, BUT NOT ALL, materials from this time period were shipped
ROLLED to the theatres. However, some materials are still shipped
folded – even today. Therefore, if the poster was initially machine
folded for shipping purposes, regardless of the year released, then
folds/fold lines are not considered a defect.
WERE ALL PRE-80's POSTERS FOLDED
When posters were printed, a batch
would be pre-folded for shipping. The remainder, quite often, was
stored flat. Then, as more was needed to be shipped, another batch
would be sent to the folding machines. The folding was due to the fact
that it was the most economical way of shipping the poster to the
theater.
If a theater owner would come by to pick
up their posters, sometimes they could get a rolled poster instead.
This seems to have created a lot of controversy in the poster
collecting community. However, the majority of the pre-1980's posters
found on the market will be folded. When a rolled one is found, it
DOES NOT mean that it's not real, it is usually a cause to take a
closer look at the poster to make sure that it's not a fake.
WHEN FOLDS/FOLD LINES ARE
NOT ACCEPTABLE
Any size poster that has been folded BY
HAND generally results in a negative affect on the poster. While
machine folds are generally crisp and clean, hand folds are not. In
addition, if a poster was initially machine-folded, and then another
fold was added by hand, the additional fold/fold lines would be
detrimental to the value of the poster.
Folds/fold lines that are found on the
smaller card stock materials, particularly lobby
cards, are generally the cause of mishandling. Lobby cards were
small enough to be mailed to the distributors without being folded;
therefore there is no "acceptable" reason for folds/fold
lines on lobby cards.
Window
cards were normally sent flat because of their size. Some
distributors folded them in half before mailing. If the window card is
machine folded for shipping, then there is no adverse affect on the
value of the poster. Inserts
were generally sent to the theatres rolled so a fold/fold line would
have a negative affect on the value. There were a number of inserts
which were machine folded before being shipped. In this case, the
fold/fold lines would not have an adverse affect on the value of the
poster.
CAN FOLD LINES BE
REPAIRED?
Fold lines can generally be diminished by
carefully following a steaming/drying process. The fold lines are
first steamed out by utilizing a heavy duty clothes steamer. Once the
foid lines are moist, a soft clamp is used to anchor one side of the
fold line. The other side of the fold line is then gently pulled out.
Once the fold has been pulled out, a hair dryer is then used to dry
the moist area. Please note that this process may leave a
"mark" due to dirt that has accumulated in the fold.
Some poster shops use a heat press to
diminish fold lines. These work similar in nature to the devices used
by drycleaners to remove wrinkles from clothes.
Note that there are dangers in a
non-professional attempting this process It must be done delicately
Once the poster is moist, it can easily be pulled apart if too much
pressure is applied. During the drying process, if too much tension is
applied, the poster can become warped. The only way to correct a
warped poster is through linen backing.
It always best to leave any repairs to a
professional restorer. (TERMS)
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TRIMMED MOVIE POSTERS
Trimming results when pieces
of the border of the poster are cut or shaved off.
CAUSES
Trimming is almost always an
intentional act which is normally done to either reduce the poster to a
smaller size, particularly for framing purposes; to intentionally remove
the credit information from the poster's artwork; or to remove some type
of border defect.
IMPACT ON POSTER VALUE
Posters SHOULD NEVER be
trimmed, as this is considered a serious defect and significantly
affects the value of the poster.
Trimming commonly occurs on window
cards, where the blank borders which were designed for use by
theatres to put show dates and times is cut off.
It is also common when
framing a poster where the frame is slightly smaller than the poster, OR
some dealers use this to eliminate some border damage. Even though if it
is done only in the border, it doesn't have quite the same impact as
trimming into the artwork. SEE GRADING
FOR MORE INFORMATION!
REPAIRS
Professional poster
restorers can restore a trimmed poster through a linen
backing process. (TERMS)
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Wrinkles are lines that are created by
pressing, folding or crinkling paper or card stock materials. They are
usually not as embedded as creases. Some
collectors misclassify wrinkles with creases; wrinkles are not as deep
or as damaging as creases. Creases go deeper into the paper and can
actually take away the color leaving a white space. Wrinkles are more
surface defects and normally do not take away the color or leave white
marks. This is particularly obvious with post-1970's materials which
are clay-coated. Creases will actually break through the clay coating
and into the color, whereas wrinkles do not.
Wrinkles are most commonly the result of
mishandling, such as rolling posters with rubber bands, laying things
on top of them, grasping them too tightly, bumping the edges, etc.
Wrinkles have a minor affect on a poster's
overall value, depending on how many there are and where they are
located. This is due to the fact that most wrinkles can be easily
steamed out. Wrinkles in the border would have
little or no affect; wrinkles on the artwork would have limited
impact, depending on the number and severity. SEE GRADING
FOR MORE INFORMATION!
Most wrinkles can be removed by either
utilizing a heavy duty clothes steamer or a heat press. Even though it
is a simple process, care should be taken anytime one is handling a
poster. Most frame shops have a heat press for straightening out the
wrinkles that occur in storing posters. (TERMS)
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BORDERS
The area located around,
but not a part of, the artwork of a poster is generally considered its
border. Most often the border is white, but in some cases black strips
are present around the outer edge of the poster. Sometimes, there are
only top or bottom borders, or borders just on the sides. In other
cases, a poster will have no obvious border whatsoever. All movie paper
sizes include the area considered the border. For example, the older one-sheet
is normally sized 27" x 41", which includes the border area.
If the border is trimmed from the poster, it is no longer 27" x
41".
Since the mid-1980's, a
growing number of studios are opting to bleed the picture artwork all
the way to the edge of the paper on the one sheet, thus eliminating the
border. To do this, printers have to shorten the poster, so most newer
one sheets now measure 27" x 40" and do not have a visible
border. Before this time, the majority of all one sheets were 27" x
41". Most one-sheets released today measure 27" x 40"
WITHOUT A BORDER.
DOES IT AFFECT THE VALUE
OF A POSTER?
Since the border of a
poster is NOT considered to be part of the artwork, common blemishes
generally do not have a negative impact on the value of a poster.
However, when these blemishes continue beyond the border and into the
artwork, the value of the poster is affected. The degree to which the
artwork is affected determines just how significantly the poster’s
value is affected.
Trimming the border also
has a negative affect on the poster's value. Border damage should be
repaired and/or framed out. Trimming is never recommended. (TERMS)
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